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A c o n c a g u a C l i m b i n g |
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For Climbing terms, Aconcagua is technically an easy mountain if approached from the north, via the normal route. Although the effects of altitude are severe (atmospheric pressure is 40% of sea-level at the summit), the use of supplemental oxygen is not required. Altitude sickness will affect most climbers to some extent, depending on the degree of acclimatization.
The second most frequented route is the Polish Glacier Traverse route. This approaches the mountain through the Vacas valley, ascends to the base of the Polish Glacier, then traverses across to the normal route for the final ascent to the summit.
The routes to the peak from the south and south-west ridges are more demanding and the south face climb is considered very difficult.
Before attempting the mountain climbers need to purchase a permit from the Aconcagua Provincial Park authority in Mendoza. Prices vary depending on the season.
The camp sites on the normal route are listed below. (altitudes are approximate)
Normal route to the summit
- Puente del Inca, 2,740m (8,990ft): A small village on the main road, with facilities including a lodge.
- Confluencia, 3,380m (11,090ft): A camp site a few hours into the national park.
- Plaza de Mulas, 4,370m (14,340ft): Base camp, claimed to be the second largest in the world (after Everest). There are several meal tents, showers and internet access. There is a lodge 500 metres from the main campsite.
- Plaza Canadá, 5,050 metres (16,570 ft): A large ledge overlooking Plaza de Mulas.
- Plaza Alaska, 5,200 metres (17,060 ft): Called 'change of slope' in Spanish, a small site as the slope from Plaza de Mulas to Nido de Cóndores lessens. Not commonly used.
- Nido de Cóndores, 5,400 metres (17,720 ft): A large plateau with beautiful views. There is usually a park ranger camped here.
- Berlín, 5,900m (19,360ft): The usual high camp. Windy and exposed, and quite filthy. Many climbers avoid it, and stay slightly higher at Piedras Blancas.
It is common to spend at least one night in Confluencia while trekking to base camp in order to acclimatize properly. Summit attempts are usually made from a high camp at either Nido de Cóndores or Berlín. Although Berlín is closer to the summit, many climbers find that they rest better at Nido and are able to make up for the lost time. Some well-acclimatized climbers also pitch their high camp even further up the mountain, at Piedras Blancas (~6,000m) or near Independencia (~6350m). Practical hints and descriptions about different routes to the summit can be found on the Aconcagua mountaineering map, published 2006 by climbing map.
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NORMAL ROUTE ACONCAGUA CLIMBING |
ITINERARY |
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DAY 1: USA / Europe – Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile
Our Aergentinian Guide will be waiting for you in the International Airport of Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile, then passengers will be transferred to the selected Hotel, dinner and Overnight. |
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DAY 2: City Tours
Buenos Aires:
Breakfast in the Hotel, and start city Tours around Buenos Aires discovering the beauty of Buenos Aires, visiting the Congreso Nacional, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Government’s House in the popular and historic Plaza de Mayo, and we will continue visiting the TANGO’s street in the traditional place of San Telmo where this typical dance remains, Trail to La Boca, we will make short stop in the Caminito colored place in the city where years ago the Italian immigrants made their houses and now it has become the house of important artists, then we will visit Palermo residencies place with decorated gardens, beautiful and modern buildings, finally the sophisticated Rocoleta one the exclusive places where we can find the cementery closed to elegant Cafes and restaurants.
The tour is in buses with heating, Conditioner air; during the visits a professional guide will explain the passengers, with the specialized information in History, City’s Geography and others
Santiango de Chile:
Breakfast in the Hotel and start City Tour of Santiago visiting the Plaza de Armas for about 20 minutes walking and talking about the historic significance of the location and the importance of the surrounding buildings. then We will continue with our tour, passing the ex-National Congress to arrive at the Plaza de la Constitucion and the famous Palacio La Moneda. Chile's presidential palace and the site of the coup d'etat of 1973. If we are there during open hours we will walk through La Moneda.
then We will continue through the cobble-stoned streets of Barrio Paris-Londres and arrive at San Francisco Church, the oldest church in Santiago, dating back to the early 1600s. We will wonder through the interior of the church and learn about its history. Driving down the Alameda we will observe many additional historic sights in Santiago on our way to the artistic and colorful barrio of Bellavista. Here we will ride the funicular to the top of Cerro San Cristobal for a scenic vista of Santiago. Leaving the top, we will drive down through Parque Metropolitana, Santiago’s largest and most interesting park, then passengers will be transferred to recoemnded restaurant and lunch by their own, free afternoon and overnight Hotel in Santiago de Chile |
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DAY 3: Buenos Aires or Santiango de Chile – Mendoza
After the Breakfast in the Hotel in Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile, transfer to the Airport or Bus Station for the Transfer to Mendoza; arrival to Mendoza city 755 masl. and transfer to the selected hotel, after the lunch in the afternoon passengers will have city tours in Mendoza, our visits starts walking by the Avenida General San Martin in the north side is located the Paseo de las Alamedas, with a vast of vegetation, water fountains and wide paved pedestrian areas to enjoy and relax your visits and walks, in a few blocks is located where this city was founded and historical section is developing around the Plaza Pedro de Castillo, here is located a museum which was built over the base of Antiguo Cabildo, where can be observed diggings, across the Plaza we can observe the Ruins of San Francisco, where for the first time was blessed the Andean Army’s Flag, walking by the Ituzaingó can be visited the Parque O`Higgings, place where the General San Martin started organizing the Andean Army, continuing we passengers will visit the plazas satellite, España, Chile, Italia, San Martín and the plaza central Independencia with huge water fountains dropping water for about 15 m high. from here visitors can walk to the Barrio Civico and walk through Avenida Mitre until Avenida Pedro Molina, in this place are located el Centro de Congresos y Exposiciones Gobernador Emilio Civit, the Poder Judicial and the Casa de Gobierno de Mendoza, then continue by west side by Avenida Emilio Civit and arrive to the French Porches of XIX Century, which belongs at San Martin park, this park was designed by Carlos Thays in 1897 and it has more than 50,000 trees form different spices, besides there is an artificial lake and next to it is the Club de Regattas de Mendoza, this park is used by the people of Mendoza for the outdoor activities such as walking, cycling, footing, etc. finally can be visited el Cerro de la Gloria where is but the monument honored to the Andean Army from here you will have panoramic views of the Mendoza City |
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DAY 3: Mendoza – Puente Inka
Before going to Puente del Inca, the whole group will apply for the climbing permit with the guides’ assistance. You will have lunch and spend the night in Puente del Inca hostel. In the afternoon, the mules are loaded and prepared for the following day |
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DAY 4: Puente Inka – Confluencia Camp
After carrying out the park entrance procedures, we begin a three-hour hike through Horcones valley to Confluencia Inferior situated at 3,300m. |
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DAY 5: Confluencia Camp – Acclimatizing Trek to Plaza Francia - Confluencia
Trek to Plaza Francia at 4,100m, situated at the foot of the southern wall of Aconcagua and from where we can observe some of the climbs and variants achieved by the most well known mountaineers from around the world. Return to Confluencia camp. |
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DAY 6: Confluencia Camp – Acclimatizing Trek to Plaza Francia - Confluencia
Trek to Plaza Francia at 4,100m, situated at the foot of the southern wall of Aconcagua and from where we can observe some of the climbs and variants achieved by the most well known mountaineers from around the world. Return to Confluencia camp |
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DAY 7: Confluencia camp – Plaza de Mulas Camp 4370m
We continue on towards Plaza de Mulas base camp at 4,300m of elevation. This is a 7 to 8 hour hike to our Plaza de Mulas camp. Our Chef awaits us here with a big dinner and hot drinks |
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DAY 8: Plaza de Mulas Base Camp – Aclimatizing Day
Rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to our next camp, and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp.This day, we will practice snow and ice techniques on the Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by direct sunlight. |
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DAY 9: Plaza de Mulas Camp – Camp 1 Plaza Canada 4900m
After a 3-hour trek, you will reach the Camp 1. The group will have lunch and set up the tents. You will begin feeling the effects of altitude on your body |
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DAY 10: Camp 1 Plaza Canada – Camp 2 Nido de los Condores 5400m
Climb to Camp 2. This trek lasts 4 hours. As on the previous days, you will set up the tents with the guides’ help. You can rest for the rest of the day |
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DAY 11: Camp 2 Nido de los Condores – Camp 3 Berlin 5900m
Climb to Camp 3 “Berlin”. This will be a short hike, around 3 hours, but all your strength is needed due to the characteristics of this part of the route. This is the last altitude camp before the summit |
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DAY 12: Camp Berlin – SUMMIT 6.962m – Camp Berlin
Climb from Camp 3 to the summit and return to Camp 3. This is the great day. The group will get up very early in the morning, have breakfast and start climbing. You will get to the summit, where you will live an unforgettable experience, and return to Berlin. You will sleep that night with the satisfaction of having reached your aim |
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| DAY 13: Reserve Day |
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| DAY 14: Reserve Day |
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DAY 15: Camp Berlin – Plaza de Mulas Base Camp
You will descend to Plaza de Mulas Base Camp. The group will have the day free to share those emotions experienced throughout the expedition |
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DAY 16: Plaza de Mulas Base Camp – Penitentes / Mendoza
From Plaza de Mulas we have mules to help carry out our gear, allowing for a “light” trek through Playa Ancha and Horcones Valley to the village of Penitentes in a 6 to 7 hour hike. At the Park Rangers station transport awaits us to take us to Hotel Mendoza to reach the comfort of this beautiful Argentinean city and meet later for our group dinner at a super local restaurant with all the guides and assistants. End of expedition. |
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| DAY 17: Mendoza – Buenos Aires / Santiago de Chile |
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| DAY 18: Buenos Aires / Santiago de Chile – USA / Europe |
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